nayarit's food's very special, too, and the zarandeado will be, hopefully, like, my nod to santiago ixcuintla. the fish gets filleted a certain way, so it's still connected at the head, at the tail. you open it. it's gutted. put it between what looks like kind of like a torture device. so it creates a perfect basket for it to grill in fully. [blows] troy: you have to, you know, really watch it because it's usally a thin fish. it's usually red snapper. it goes wrong really, really quick, especially with an open flame, which is not a gas, minutely-controlled device. open flame varies from, you know, second to second. but when you get it right, you know, when you get that char on it--and char is one of mexico's special charms. the fact that she's trying to pull that dish off in el jardin is crazy and may not be an incredibly smart move, but i le that. that's why claudette made her name. the food scene in san diego was a wasteland for, i mean, years and years and years. but i think that chefs came here because, you know, they could go to l.a. and be, you know, yet another voice in the chorus, you