no off notes at all. >> kroft: as they listened to jim mcewan extol the virtues of bruichladdich, thetes, connoisseurs, and whisky snobs approached each glass with reverence bordering on the religious. >> mcewan: ah, wow, the fruit in that is incredible. >> kroft: as the glasses empty, the smiles got bigger. but the islanders will tell you that all of this warmth and good feeling comes not from the alcohol in the spirits, but from the spirit of the place. it is almost mystical-- beautiful, dramatic and quiet. there's no road rage, barely any traffic. if you do get hung up, it's probably because of a farm animal. they have the right of way. and if you do happen upon people, they'll almost always greet you with the islay wave. >> ailsa hayes: everybody just waves because it's just friendly. there's not so many of us, so you just wave to say hi. >> kroft: it's what ailsa hayes liked about the island when she moved her family here from london to take a manager's position at one of islay's thriving distilleries. >> simon: it's strange, is it not, that such a small place with so few people,