you see here, john wanamaker. that is the store label. we do not see a designer's name. here we have kerry collins -- the names are completely buried in the text. you cannot really see them. and furthermore, they were for the custom, higher-end apparel a nd not just the regular masses' garments. progressive era, ida tarbell has a great quote. from top to bottom we are copying. the french or viennese mode, start in on upper fifth avenue spreads to 23rd street from 23rd street to 14th street, to grant canal. each move sees it reproducing materials a little less elegant and durable, it's colors a little older eyes, -- volga rise -- vulgarized, its ornaments cheapened, it's places poorer. a travesty, and yet, a recognizable travesty. design piracy will truly help fuel the apparel industry as style change becomes the force of the growth of the industry. styles will be copied so quickly that any popular style will be virtually immediately available at lower in lower price points. as the design was copied at lower price points, the market will become flooded with cheap imitatio