in "heart of darkness" joseph conrad writes of his alter ego -- when i was a little chap, i had a passion maps. at that time there were many blank spaces on earth. but there was one yet, the biggest, the most blank, that i had a hankering after. this then is the congo. the size of all western europe combined. it should be africa's wealthiest nation. the people forget, or never even knew, that the 20th century's first holocaust happened here when belgium's king leopold managed to bamboozle giving him personal title to the congo. leopold's agents of whom the mythical kurtz was one, raided, slaughtered, mutilated and pressed into forced labor much of the population, in a bloodthirsty quest for first ivory and then rubber. when independence finally came, the belgians trashed what they could, and left behind a completely unprepared tribally divided and largely ungovernable land mass, filled with stuff that everybody in the world wanted. and things pretty much went downhill from there. ♪ >>> but this story begins with the truck stop. in rwanda. stocking up in rwanda. my expectations for food in