and louise hershfeld coleman, judy and josh weston, joyce v. the wallock family in memory of mile an hour yam and eila dean wallock, bernard and eileen schwartz, corporate funding is provided by mutual of america, designing customized, individual, and group retirement products. that's why we are your retirement company. additional support is provided by -- and by the corporation for public broadcasting and by contributions to your pbs station from viewers like you. contributions to your pbs station from viewers like you. thank you. -- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com steves: i'm meeting my florentine friend tommaso at i fratellini, a venerable hole in the wall much loved among locals for its tasty sandwiches and wine sold by the glass. -grazie. -tommaso: thank you. and when you're done, you leave it on the rack. steves: boy, it's intense in the city. tommaso: yes, it is. well, if you want to leave the tourists, let's cross the river, and let's go to where the real florentines live and work. -steves: what's that? -tommaso: the oltrarno area. s