with the ethnic kachin tribe would be one of them. death in the thu kine state. they're waging a desperate war to hang on to the stat us quo. needless to say, the status quo is not good. >> all right. bagan, here we come. a thousand years ago bagan was the capital for a long line of kings. it's the sort of place where the old coexists with the even older. as elsewhere in this part of the world. in many of the buddhist temples here more spirit-based beliefs coexist with buddhism. and in myanmar, worship of the gnats are wore shipped, they're gods, obvious with human failings. dance performances pay homage to the individual nats, performers claiming to actually channel them, bringing about one hopes a beneficial spiritual possession. but i'm not just here for a nat pue. i have a list. things to eat in myanmar. this is one of them. chicken curry. and from roadside joints like this nestled among the temple ruins, you're more than likely to catch a very enticing whiff. just delicious. spicy, but not to the point you want to scream out for