and south, we visit the neighborhood of kreuzberg. cruising the river spree makes a delightful introduction to berlin. cruise companies offer a variety of tours of downtown and the surrounding areas. laced with waterways, berlin boasts more bridges than venice. we're taking the short one-hour city cruise. from its glory as the capital of prussia, to the terror and destruction of hitler and world war ii, to its nearly 30-year division by the wall, berlin has known both triumph and utter defeat. after being unified, berlin has undertaken a massive program to rebuild. in the center of the river, an island called the museuminsel is home to some of the finest museums in the world. i've disembarked to discover the treasures of the pergamon museum. the turn of the last century saw a fierce competition between the european powers to uncover great works of antiquity. german archeologists led major expeditions to the near east and acquired a collection of colossal city gates and altars that give a dramatic picture of ancient life. from pergamon