kulcha, this is the iconic dish of punjab? >> yeah. pressed against the side of a very, very hot clay oven, slathered with butter and served with a spicy choli, a chickpea curry on the side. did i mention the butter? >> how is it? >> mm. delicious. >> everyone in amritsar seems to be an expert on kulcha, including this lady. >> this is a chutney. and this is our radish. >> very, very, very good. generally speaking, punjabis are famous for being a warrior class. taller, bigger. >> yes. they're big. >> still maybe not fighters so much but still eaters. >> oh, yeah. big-time. yes. the religion doesn't matter. food is religion here. >> first time in amritsar? >> checking off my list of things to do in the punjab, i got to score some animal protein. it's time. i've been going all morrissey for two days now and frankly, that's enough. i need chicken. we are nowhere here. where am i? >> it's known as ira chikana. it's very famous for chicken. >> when we are talking must-haves, tandoori chicken is just that. >> i have some lemon in this. you w