the enchanting town of cesky krumlov, buried in the hills of bohemia, lassooed by its river, and dominated by its castle, feels lost in a time warp. its delightful old town of shops and cobbled lanes, characteristic little restaurants, and easy-going canoeing options makes it a favorite with tourists. and there's no shortage of accommodations. our home is the castleview apartments. plush and thoughtfully equipped, my room is typical of the work locals are doing, as even medieval lofts are being renovated to meet the needs of the growing number of visitors. open beams, a handy kitchenette, and, as its name promises, a castle view, make this a fine temporary home. with a natural moat provided by the vltava river, it's no wonder this place has been a choice spot for ages. the 16th century was the town's golden age when cesky krumlov was a cultural power, hosting artists, scientists, and alchemists from all over europe. the town's many tourists set their sights on the mighty castle of the rosenberg family. for three centuries, until about 1600, the rosenbergs, bohemia's top noble family, ran t