leopold's agents of whom the mythical kurtz was one, raided, slaughtered, mutilated and pressed into of the population, in a bloodthirsty quest for first ivory and then rubber. when independence finally came, the belgians trashed what they could, and left behind a completely unprepared tribally divided and largely ungovernable land mass, filled with stuff that everybody in the world wanted. and things pretty much went downhill from there. ♪ ♪ >>> but this story begins with the truck stop. in rwanda. stocking up in rwanda. my expectations for food in the congo are more measured. if you're looking to get to the eastern congo, and many would ask why you would even want to do that, the best way is to drive across from neighboring rwanda. this country, of course, not too long ago, suffered its own appalling genocide. behind the wheel, dan. he's been living in the drc for two years, working on a documentary about some of the several dozen rebel groups in the country. riding shotgun, dan's close friend and associate horeb, a congolese. they're taking me across the border. one side, rwanda,