widely known as aa gill, he's the much feared and widely followed restaurant critic for the london sunday timesazines, author, traveler and one of the finest essayists of our time. letterewe, as it stands today, was built as a shooting lodge. deer stalking like they do here is something from another era, but it persists in places like this, which both protect and cull deer populations. if you are, like us, of course, two murderous aristocrats, looking to put some venison on the table, you need help, professional help, and estates like letterewe, come with a stalker. stephen miller has been working here for eight seasons now, both protecting the animals who live on it, and helping people like us in the arduous and delicate task of sneaking up on them. we would, as gentlemen of leisure, require a cook, and adrian has recommended the supremely well-suited fiona cullinane, who excels at this kind of scottish, traditional game cookery. for dinner it's grouse. shot, then hung until the already funky game bird gets pleasingly ripe. the birds are rubbed inside and out with salt and pepper, some fresh t