. >> mantilla is a suburb of havana, home to one of cuba's most celebrated writers. [ speaking spanishs been able to portray the daily struggles, the absurdities of life in cuba. it's a delicate dance, and few have been able to replicate it. your hero in the books, does he live in this neighborhood? or another neighborhood? >> more or less. more or less. >> happy place to grow up, this neighborhood? >> yeah, yeah. i was totally free. >> i notice a lot of people just hanging out. who lives here? >> all kinds of people. doctors, for example. engineers. workers. >> and people who makes nothing, like that guy. >> right. >> he don't make nothing. >> how does he live? >> trying to find something to do or something to sell. making a small business. >> cafeteria a la barbeque is only one example of a booming do-it-yourself service industry. ♪ it's a place where you get a lot of bang for your money. nothing fancy, just delicious. fried pork, plantains. and the kind of silky, deeply satisfying beans that dreams are made of. this is good, good beans. >> yeah. >> you never had a book blacklisted o