maxa: history weighs heavily on berlin. no other modern european capitol has seen so much destruction, division, and strife. yet rising from the rubble like the phoenix from its ashes, berlin is reborn--a youthful, dynamic, exhilarating city. berlin never stands still: new buildings, new art, new fashion, new restaurants are always on the rise. berlin's lure comes not only from its world-class cultural sites, but also from its energy. the excitement is palpable. berliners have always fancied themselves smart, spirited, and iconoclastic. the city is diverse, with a huge foreign population and the largest gay and lesbian community in europe. with a long, troubled history behind them, berliners are thoroughly modern. berlin isn't a city you can stroll through. you have to pick your places, dig a little deeper. edgy, eclectic berlin wins you over slowly. its beauty lies within-- down back alleys, inside the vast museums, in the warmth of its people, and along the streets of its friendly, easy neighborhoods. berlin is a large ci