. >> michael rampino vietnam has changed since last time i was here. >> it's changing every minute. but some things for now anyway, remain the same. important things are like this stuff that's going to be good. bjÖrn hÖcke first meal in hanoi and it's something they do here better than anywhere else. okay, i'm officially in hanoi now. magic. a spicy, wonderful broth with tomatoes and herb and noodles and fresh snails. plump and delicious. look at those beauties. come to me, plump little love mussel. hanoi, capital city of vietnam. 7.5 million people live here in the winter. it's chilly and damp in the summer. hot humid subtropical, the boulevards and many of the buildings are french, but it's heart and soul is always, always vietnamese. americans coming here as tourists for the first time, especially veterans of the war, are shocked by how friendly the place is. people are genuinely happy to see you. this is hanoi's old quarter, but it's looking less and less old these days. this area has changed, though, in the irish slash czech themed pub next door. vietnam is a young country. alm