you can't build new ones, and the ones that are here, like this one, owned by dominique and nathalie lefrererties, and they ain't going anywhere. is this area protected, meaning if i wanted to open a giant modern hotel across there, is impossible, right? >> actually, it was just a couple of years ago, it was kind of scaled up on the protection level, so nothing is going to happen now, yeah. >> and most of these properties are owned by the same family for many years? right. >> but we lived in marseille. then we came here for weekends. >> that's nice. lunch is being prepared by andre guidicelli, known around here as day-day. panisse, crispy fried fritters of chickpea, which go really well with nathalie's aioli. and one of my favorites, murex, mediterranean sea snails simmered in a court bouillon of garlic, wild fennel, and orange peel. that's the taste of this region for me. it's garlic. yep. olive oil, yep. saffron. >> sure. >> anise. >> anise, exactly. >> and look at this. look at this. sardine, lightly marinated in lemon and olive oil. you can pretty much rub that all over me. i don't care.