this is the land of thor and odin, whose spirits still inhabit the misty peaks. for centuries, villagers trekked across this pass to reach the coast. it was an arduous journey, but today, crossing it is a pleasure. at 4,600 feet, the sognefjell road is norway's highest pass. at this latitude, even these modest altitudes take us high above the tree line, with snow through the summer. norway's lunar-like mountainscapes and deep fjords were shaped by glaciers that covered most of the continent 10,000 years ago. europe's largest surviving glacier, jostedal, is still hard at work. it covers 180 square miles, and, though shrinking, is still mighty. of the many tongues of the glacier, this one, called "nigardsbreen," offers the best visit. the valley comes with a quintessential glacier view. the approach includes a cruise across the glacial lake. the scale is enormous, and blue cliffs of ancient ice dwarf awestruck visitors. park guides lash on crampons and rope up adventurous travelers in preparation for an icy hike. while there are more demanding nigardsbreen routes,

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