nunu works at the onnanoko club, which calls itself a cross—dressing bar. people of all identities. nunu identifies as trans and was originally a customer here. chatting and laughter. this pocket of tokyo flourished because it gave people a space outside of the mainstream where they could express themselves without facing disapproval. but tradition still has a powerful hold overjapan, as i'll find out in the next stage of myjourney. now it's time for me to leave the capital on board one of their famous bullet trains. announcer: the train | at track number 23 is... what is happening? we are trying to get you wheelchair space. some lines saw the number of wheelchair spaces on board treble in the lead—up to the paralympics, but it takes a while to find me a space. it's turning out to be quite a faff, i think. they recommend that you book it all up in advance to save all of this, you know? that doesn't work if you don't know you're travelling until an hour before you need to travel. all sorted. well, here we go then! i'm on my way to oshima island, 1,000 kilome