the simple loveliness and serenity of ossios loukas may set you yearning for a monastic life. lined in red and green marble, the church interior is startling in its beauty. celestial light filters through the windows, illuminating the fine byzantine mosaics. the images illustrate a core drama of the christian faith: the crucifixion... christ descending into hell, and his resurrection into heaven. today, a handful of orthodox monks still maintain the sacred site. we're making a quick stop at arachova, a winsome mountain village on the slopes of mount parnassos. a popular ski resort in the winter, in summer, it's a great place for an afternoon break and a snack on the way to delphi. man: this--uh--feta, this yogurt--uh--mix. maxa: feta and yogurt mix. may i taste it? mm. whoa. man: it's very, very... hmm. that is good, but it's got a kick, whoa. nearing our destination, we round a rugged mountain slope and delphi opens before us like a great amphitheater. perhaps like no other site, the ancient ruins of delphi inspire awe, evoking a sort of "spirit of place." some consider this