piazza amphitheater was built around an ancient roman arena.is a reminder of the city's classical heritage. locals have been gathering here for 2,000 years. today's attraction -- a flower market. piazza san michele also has ancient roots. it's hosted a market since roman times, when it was the forum. today it's dominated by the church of san michele. towering above its fancy romanesque facade, the archangel michael stands ready to flap his wings, which, thanks to a crude mechanical contraption, he actually did on special occasions. in its heyday, lucca packed over 100 towers within its walls. each tower was the home and private fortress of a wealthy merchant family. towers were single rooms stacked atop each other -- shop, living room, and then the kitchen. this one, lucca's tallest surviving tower, is famous for being capped with a bushy little forest. those making the climb are rewarded with commanding city views, all in the shade of its amazing trees. nearby, the church of san giovanni hosts nightly concerts celebrating the music of hometown