i'm rachel harvey, and in 2004, i was the bbc's indonesia correspondent based in jakarta. i was woken up on the morning of boxing day by the news desk in london saying that there had been this big earthquake recorded off the coast of indonesia, and could i try and get as much information as possible and file a radio dispatch as soon as possible? banda aceh was a really tough place forjournalists to get to, because it was the site of a really nasty separatist insurgency, but also stunningly beautiful. it had that real contrast about it. in the morning, at about 8:00, my mum woke me up because she told me there was an earthquake. it was shaking so hard. it's like, "doo, doo, doo, doo." like that. suddenly, there was a sound like airplane, like, o—o—o—h. and my neighbours said, "oh, that's the airplane." but my small village is far away from the airport. it's impossible, the sound of the airplane, so i told them that's the sound of wave. there was a horrible, lingering silence from aceh, which was always going to be bad news — we just didn't quite know how bad. it was just a