i mean, i prefaced my book on rembrandt where i thought about it a lot and this book is like a million pages long and i got over my problems over with words but i did preface by paul valerie's remark that one should apologize about one's painting. the case with food-writing, too, i think, does food-writing has more ambitions to be more simply than what you can buy at the green market and how to cook it which is a good kind of food-writing but if it has more ambitions and actually to do a certain issue of food-writing because, you know, our olfactory being our incredible organ of preserved writing. it has this quality of trying to translate sensation of taste, of texture, of what happens on our palate into speech or writing. the essay called mouthing off which i haven't published anywhere actually about those two things we do with our mouth, speech and taste. and the two don't fit together really without, you know, a particular set of calculations coming into play. and very often it's some of the most poetic writers the dangers are of overreach. what most -- not all but most wine-writin