we decided to visit the sacre coeur. is this beautiful landmark catholic church which was built on the top of this enormous very steep hill. there's this kind of system of cable cars which ferries wheelchairs, pushchairs, the elderly, the otherwise disabled and americans up the hill. but the cable car only goes halfway and from that point you have to either walk up the remaining steps or take this long and painfully cobbled route round the side of the hill and up the slope. we were sitting at the top of the cable car section of the hill admiring the view when a group of nuns appeared before us and began setting up for what duly became a short biblical play. the nuns moved around the crowd handing out leaflets. there i sat, sweaty and despondent in my ill—fitting wheelchair when this haloed white cassocked figure appeared before me, presumably mistaking my carefully created mourning look for sorrow over my disability. the nun placed a reassuring hand on my shoulder, "we pray for you", she said, "we pray your legs better".