book now at lq.com >> philippe: samosa? >> philippe: samosa? samosa? okay. done. now, this is breakfast. >> anthony: nearly 19 hours into our 10-hour trip, and the night express to bagan lurches and bounces onward over old and poorly maintained tracks. could have flown back to new york for breakfast. i -- i had time. what's in yours? >> philippe: carrots. root. >> anthony: i got potatoes in mine. >> philippe: how to make good food pretty. look at this. >> anthony: a bouquet of fish. >> philippe: indeed. so, this is it. this is the plain of bagan. >> anthony: out the window, the modern world seems to fade away, then disappear altogether, like the last century never happened, or even the century before that. we're traveling across the largest mainland nation in southeast asia. but it should be pointed out that we are still within the confines of the tourist triangle, areas permissible for travel. whole sectors of this country, much of it, in fact, are off-limits. simply put, there is shit going on they do not want you to see. a low-intensity conflict wit