♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha la la la la ♪ sha la la la la la la ♪ sha la la la la ♪ sha la la la la la latself trembles. the ground shakes beneath the wheels of our heavy metal thunder. back in beirut, after all these year years. the first time i was here it did not end well but it made no difference to me. i love it here. in spite of everything, i love it here. >> nice ride. it's a good way to see beirut. >> this is very similar to that place we went to years ago. this is your traditional chicken sandwich. >> the broasted chicken was this man's idea, ramsey short who i met in the bad old days of 2006. apparently he's in with the lebanese chapter of the harley davidson group, or hog for short. so when you roll into some religiously conservative villages on the bikes and leather jackets what is the reaction? >> two types. once we were pelted with rice and the other extreme was stones at the wheels like just get out of here. >> i wouldn't throw stones at people on harleys. whoa. look at this. let's dig in. >> this is a famous neighborhood. this area was central during the civil war. the she

♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha la la la la ♪ sha la la la la la la ♪ sha la la la la ♪ sha la la la la la laas american as anything could possibly be. yet also never shed what was there before in the layers and layers that have come since. it's a wonderful tricky conflicted mutant in lack of a better word you'd have to call paradise. no man's paradise. paradises don't exist. paradise is kind of in your head. >> wait a minute. you look at your window here. you look at those hills, those mountains, all that green, that blue sky. the clear sea. it sure looks like paradise to me. this guy knows. he's been everywhere. he's paul theru. he's a legendary travel writer. of the all the places he's been, all the places he's seen, he chose hawaii to live and he's lived here for 25 years. >> does it matter that it's america? >> it's the big thing that it's america. it has elements of the third world. the nicest elements of the third world which is the self-respect, the pride. things that don't work at all. and then it's usa. where we are now. there's pta meetings here. they get together and watch the sup