like many tourist zones, tallinn's is a commercial gauntlet. there's a hokey torture museum, strolling russian dolls, medieval theme restaurants complete with touts, and enthusiastic hawkers of ye olde taste treats. woman: [ laughs ] steves: but just a couple blocks away is, for me, the real attraction of tallinn -- workaday locals enjoying real freedom and better economic times. still-ramshackle courtyards host inviting cafés. bistros serve organic cuisine in a chic patina of old-world-meets new. and just outside the walls, it seems there's no tourism at all. under towering ramparts, the former moat is now a park, perfect for a warm afternoon stroll. >>> glad to have you with us on this edition of "newsline." it's tuesday, december 9th. i'm catherine kobayashi in tokyo. officials at the u.n. say conflicts and disasters are leaving people worldwide in need of humanitarian aid. officials say people's needs are outpacing the u.n.'s capps toy respond. the u.n. has told donors next career, it needs more than $16 billion in funds ch officials plan t