like many tourist zones, tallinn's is a commercial gauntlet. here there's a hokey torture museum, strolling russian dolls, medieval theme restaurants complete with touts, and enthusiastic hawkers of ye olde taste treats. woman: [ laughs ] steves: but just a couple blocks away is, for me, the real attraction of tallinn -- workaday locals enjoying real freedom and better economic times. still-ramshackle courtyards host inviting cafés. bistros serve organic cuisine in a chic patina of old-world-meets new. and just outside the walls, it seems there's no tourism at all. under towering ramparts, the former moat is now a park, perfect for a warm afternoon stroll. ♪ ♪ ♪ -- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com >>> hello there and welcome to "newsline." it's tuesday march 24th. i'm catherine kobayashi in tokyo. pakistani military personnel celebrated national day marching through the streets of the capital. they held their first parade in seven years. experts say it's meant to show their resolve to fight terrorism. the parade took place on monday during pa