vietnamese cuisine, and most people don't want that cuisine to change or don't want to have their understatandinge cucuisine to change. becaususe the cuisine is chahang l the timime. the idea of a, like, this unifying national cuisine, vietnamese cuisine, it doesn't exist. really, it truly doesn't exist. even a unified vietnamese identity doesn't exist. [dings] like, it's kikind of like s sayg italians--defined by tomatoes and olive oil. wwhat people see as essential,, it''s because they'y're looking from like an n outsider's point o of view, and it's not granular. 'cause once you go granular, it's