time to visit the vatto mesina, sacred stones.o ancestors ensures safe passage and good fortune. after this the going gets tougher. a once narrow forest path churned to mud by thousands of feet. as we walk, the trees close in on us. and then we hear them. lemurs calling. indri, right above us. the mining trail leads directly through their territory. naturally timid, we have to go to a national park to get this close. the indris live on the fourth—biggest island on the planet, 500km off the coast of east africa. the wildlife is spectacular and rare. many species live here and only here. it is a privilege to see them in their natural habitat, but for how much longer? this has taken more than nine hours of walking, but we are finally here. we are right at the centre of what is the latest sapphire rush, the biggest sapphire rush. for at least 20 years, and still they come, men, women and children. building homes of wood and plastic, creating a makeshift town in the heart of the forest. there are shops, and bars... ..but no hospital, s