around california, and for 3 generations now, the nichols family has worked passionately to make victoria island farms in holt, just west of stockton, the largest grower of premium asparagus in california. >> this is what we're looking at. this has, uh, been harvested from the field behind me. it's, uh, beautiful-looking straight asparagus. nice big spears, straight, tight tips. uh, really, really nice, quality asparagus. >> the asparagus ferns gather energy and nutrients from the summer sun, then sit dormant in the fall and winter, but as soil temperatures warm in the spring, the asparagus crowns underground become active, and the bright-green stalks emerge, sometimes sprouting as much as 10 inches in one day. this growth spurt can be attributed to the san joaquin delta's formerly river-bottom soil. >> the delta peat soil is so fertile, uh, so light. it's an organic-based soil, and it really produces premium asparagus. and the stronger the crown underneath the soil, the healthier it is, the bigger the spear is. >> during peak season, 9 is the magic number. the loyal crews survey each row of asp