for many people in yogyakarta, mt. merapi-- the mountain of fire that looms over the city, has become a macabre-- otherworldly destination for a sunday ride. for thousands of volcano refugees, it is quite simply, home. or, at least it as. no one is certain when, or if, they will ever return. the only home and farm ranto utomo has ever known used to be here. "everything is destroyed totally destroyed," he told me. "no house, no cow, our village is totally destroyed." it was the worst eruption here in 140 years. it began on october 26, when merapi blew its top shooting lava, hot gas, boulders and ash down the mountainside at the speed of a jet airplane-- a scalding hot, lightning fast landslide scientists call a pyroclastic flow. take a look at this. this gives you a sense of the force, the devastation that is created by one of these pyroclastic flows. it came down this way. gas heated to 1,800 degrees fahrenheit. huge boulders the size of houses moving at 450 miles an hour. this is what's left of the town of kaliadem. a