and for fred, scampi newberg. when is the last time you saw the word "newberg" on a menu? most noble of dishes, dover sole. this appears to be one of the few remaining servers alive who knows how to take that fish off the bone, sauce it and properly serve it. thank you very much. >> a pleasure. bon apetit. >> merci. man, i love this place. so happy. it's very comforting. there's continuity in this world. >> across town -- ♪ -- another thing entirely. the younger, wilder l'affaire est ketchup, which i'm reliably informed means everything is cool in local idiom. at this point in my life, i just don't know anymore. are these young cooks, these servers, these dedicated entrepreneurs, are they hipsters, or am i just a cranky, old [ muted ] who thinks anybody below the age of 30 is a hipster? i don't know, but i admire them. >> how much did it cost you when you opened? >> not much. >> look at this tiny electric four-burner stove. at no point in my cooking career could i have worked with one of these without murdering everyone in the vicinity before hanging myself from the neares