from piraeus, boats depart for points throughout the aegean sea. cruise ships await their passengers, and hydrofoils vie with lumbering car ferries. it's an exciting springboard for the greek isles. we're riding a flying dolphin, one of the fleet of speedy hydrofoils that zip from athens to the islands and from island to island. it's fast but less scenic as the passengers are stuck inside. i like to hang out in the windy doorway. after a 90-minute ride, athens is a world away, and we pull into the isle of hydra. its main town, also called hydra, is home to about 90% of the island's 3,000 residents. after the noise of athens, hydra's traffic-free tranquility is a delight. i'm glad i'm packing light as i hike up to my hotel. hydra is one of the prettiest towns in greece. its superb harbor is surrounded by an amphitheater of rocky hills. there's an easy blend of work-a-day commerce, fancy yachts, and lazy tourists on island time. donkeys rather than cars. the shady awnings of well-worn cafes. and memorable seaside views all combine to make it clear, y