its best stop -- the town of piran. many adriatic towns are overwhelmed by tourists and concrete but piran has kept itself charming and in remarkably good repair while holding the tourist sprawl at bay. crowded onto the tip of its peninsula, piran can't grow. the main square was once a protected harbor until it began to stink so badly they had to fill it in. a colorful mix of work and pleasure boats fill today's harbor. these days, piran's walls are inviting, rather than defensive, and the town is simply an enjoyable place in which to relax. explore the evocative back lanes. hike up to the cathedral. scale the venetian-style bell tower. on top, catch your breath by enjoying views of piran and nearly the entire slovenian coastline. the traffic-free harbor front, lined with slovenes enjoying fresh seafood is made to order for a stroll. swimmers frolic while sunbathers claim more than their share of the national coastline. piran clusters around its showpiece square, piazza tartini. as with most towns on the adriatic, it wa