from isfahan? or from tehran? this is a former wrestlers' hangout? ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ tucked deep in the labyrinth of isfahan's bazaar, the smell of something very, very good. this shop has been here doing the same thing for a hundred years. and based on the line, it must be doing it right. i've had biryani in india. i've had it in uzbekistan. but there's no question who invented biryani. >> farrokh: no. no way. >> anthony: biryani. maybe you know the word. though this doesn't look like any biryani i've ever had. minced lamb shoulder, onion, turmeric, cinnamon, mint, and of course, saffron. more valuable than gold by weight. this is delicious. >> farrokh: mmm! really good. >> anthony: isfahan today, one of the most visited areas by tourists? >> farrokh: yeah. everybody you know, if you come to iran and you don't visit isfahan, you have wasted your time. ♪ >> anthony: the royal mosque sits astride imam square, the second-largest square in the world behind tiananmen in china. at dusk, families come to square to cool off, picni