zoe daniel: alaska's arctic national wildlife refuge known as anwr, protected by the us government, but also contested for decades. here, animals roam in a pristine wilderness in one of the last places of its kind on earth, but it's under threat. [gunshot] donald trump: anwr in alaska, one of the great sites of energy in the world. zoe: the trump administration plans to allow drilling here for oil and gas. bernadette demientieff: we still live off of our land. that is our survival. that's all we know. marie rexford: you don't live here and you're making rules for us. what are those rules doing for us? ♪♪♪ [engine running] robert thompson: hey, we're going to go see some bears, there's lots of them over there. zoe: let's do it. ♪♪♪ zoe: clinging to the icy tundra on the shore of the beaufort sea in the arctic ocean is kaktovik. it's an unlikely tourist hotspot at the edge of the world. ♪♪♪ robert: i'll go over there, i'm sure we'll see some bears there. zoe: a resident of more than 30 years, today, local guide robert thompson is taking me out into the lagoon to view the main attraction,