>> anthony: state senator willie simmons has been an elected official of the mississippi delta for 20 years. and he's been running this place, senator's place, for 11. now what's the difference between soul food and southern, traditional southern food? >> willie simmons: it depends upon the culture. and what neighborhood you was in. if you were in the black neighborhood, then it became soul. we probably put a little bit more of the throwaway in our cooking -- the pig feet, the pigtail, the neck bones, and all that's fatty. >> anthony: now you're making me hungry. now you are definitely making me -- >> willie simmons: we got some neck bones over there, okay. >> anthony: oh, excellent. so greens -- >> willie simmons: turnip greens. >> anthony: i'll have some of that for sure. is that fried okra there? i'll have a little of that. i might need more than one plate at this rate. uh, let me get some mac 'n' cheese. what's that, lima beans? the red bean, oh man, that looks

i represent. so mississippi delta has that pride. >> anthony: 46 miles southeast is greenwood. a town with a lot of history. most of it of the not good variety. known unfortunately as much for byron de la beckwith, and tom brady's infamous speech after brown v. the board of education as anything else, fairly or not, it's hard to get past that. during all the years of cruelty and struggle from 1933 on, through it all and until today, this place, lusco's, was a beloved institution. once a grocery store, it turned restaurant to the money class, serving them in discreet quarters in the back where one could enjoy an alcoholic beverage in what was then a dry state. still going after all these years. and unchanged. why? >> john t. edge: this place is like a reliquary of like indiscretions past. you know?