ubiquitous cornmeal porridge. made from a texture more crumbly than pap. >> good taste. oh, yeah.day? you do a lot of great food in a small space. there are no seats. his customers remain part of the constantly unfolding street theater of yeoville. they mingle, talk, observe. >> with food, i knew food is a way to engage. got to put something in your mouth to get your ears open, you know. ♪ >> across town, another pioneer of sorts. an urban settler in a very different neighborhood. this is hillbrow. a notoriously dangerous district. and this is deejay lez. >> when i came here, i always dreamed of being a musician. i see myself singing in front of huge crowds, you know, making money in the process. that's what i dreamt about. >> he spins records and promotes acts and events in nightclubs. we meet in his favorite spot. sympathy's restaurant. what's good? what do you like? that looks good. is that fried chicken? >> that's the fried chicken. >> the place is heavy with the smell of frying chicken, stewing greens. walk right up. place your order. and be sure to get some mill pap. heaped