they gave rise to mesopotamia, the land between the rivers, home to one of the earliest civilisationsodern day iraq. the water here is at its most pristine. untouched, you can drink it straight the streams. but almost as soon as it runs off the mountains, it becomes contaminated. this is the rubbish dump for sulaymaniya, one of the biggest cities in northern iraq. and everything gets dumped here. this is just one of the most extraordinary things i've ever seen. it's a mountain of rubbish. it looks like part of the landscape, and that's the point. all of this is leaching into the river, the problem may start here, but the consequences of it are really being felt downstream. our guide, nabil, grew up here. he once worked as a forklift driver overseas, but the beauty of iraq brought him home. now he's an environmental activist, dedicated to cleaning up the country's waterways. he says iraqis need to wake up to the nightmare they've created. this is a cancer. if we don't fix this, this cancer will spread, obviously, you can see this is a sliding down and going towards our life, which is o